Posts Tagged ‘Photographys’
Photography?s Digital Possibilities – Retouching
Tutorial on GIMP Cloning Part One. See WWW.FOTOLINQ.COM for more FREE GIMP and other photography and videography videos!
Video Rating: 5 / 5
Retouching or touching up a photo can easily be done in modern image editing software. One of the popular programs is Adobe’s Photoshop, which this tutorial is based on. Other programs have similar tools and can be used in the same way. In fields such as photojournalism and documentary photography, retouching and image alterations should be used very moderately.
Why retouching?
Retouching is typically used to remove spots and blemishes in a photo, resulting from dust and dirt on the lens and sensor. It can also be used to remove unwanted details in your photo such as for instance those small pieces of litter that you didn’t notice when you took that nice landscape picture or the skin imperfections on the cute photo model you’ve just made a stunning portrait of.
Using the ‘clone stamp’ and ‘healing brush’ tools is straight forward. With the ‘clone stamp’ tool you first select a reference point from where you want the image pixels copied. You then proceed to ‘paint’ over your unwanted spots like you were using the ‘paintbrush’. It is best used on large, uniform areas of your image where there’s no significant difference in colour or texture. If that’s not the case, the ‘healing brush’ usually provides a better option. It’s used in the same way, but takes into account the colour and texture around the spots you’re trying to remove. Most of the time it will remove the spots with a single ‘stroke of the paintbrush’, leaving no trace of rework.
Before submitting my photos to my stock agency, I always check the photos for unwanted spots. No agency or photo buyer likes to receive a ‘dirty’ submission so it’s important to be 100% sure that you get all of them before handing over your photo to a client. I have developed a little method that makes it easier for me to spot the spots and remove them. It’s simple, just create an adjustment layer (press F1 for help if you’re not sure how to do it), select ‘curves’ and make the contrast very high, especially in the most spot-prone areas such as the sky and blank surface. This will make every spot stand out clearly, easy to spot. Now click on the original background layer to make sure that’s where you are working and proceed with the ‘clone stamp’ and ‘healing brush’ tools to remove them one by one. When you’re finished, delete the adjustment layer again. Now you’re sure you got’em all!
Another couple of great tools for retouching is the ‘burn tool’ and the ‘dodge tool’. The ‘burn tool’ is used to make bright areas darker and the ‘dodge tool’ for making dark areas brighter. Set the % ratio to something like 20% and the brush size to whatever is appropriate for your specific purpose. The neat thing is you can select between working on shadows, midtones or highlights only. It’s a common problem that the sky is overexposed, but quickly swiping the ‘burn tool’ over the white sky (having selected to work on highlights) makes it light grey, as if it was overcast. For portraits, the ‘dodge tool’ is excellent for making teethes in the smiling mouth more white. Since the tools preserves any texture, it looks more natural than actually starting to paint things grey or white.
The
Photography?s Digital Possibilities – Retouching
Unboxing the DSC-TX10 Cybershot from Sony. This video takes you through all the material and components included in the box.
Video Rating: 4 / 5
Retouching or touching up a photo can easily be done in modern image editing software. One of the popular programs is Adobe’s Photoshop, which this tutorial is based on. Other programs have similar tools and can be used in the same way. In fields such as photojournalism and documentary photography, retouching and image alterations should be used very moderately.
Why retouching?
Retouching is typically used to remove spots and blemishes in a photo, resulting from dust and dirt on the lens and sensor. It can also be used to remove unwanted details in your photo such as for instance those small pieces of litter that you didn’t notice when you took that nice landscape picture or the skin imperfections on the cute photo model you’ve just made a stunning portrait of.
Using the ‘clone stamp’ and ‘healing brush’ tools is straight forward. With the ‘clone stamp’ tool you first select a reference point from where you want the image pixels copied. You then proceed to ‘paint’ over your unwanted spots like you were using the ‘paintbrush’. It is best used on large, uniform areas of your image where there’s no significant difference in colour or texture. If that’s not the case, the ‘healing brush’ usually provides a better option. It’s used in the same way, but takes into account the colour and texture around the spots you’re trying to remove. Most of the time it will remove the spots with a single ‘stroke of the paintbrush’, leaving no trace of rework.
Before submitting my photos to my stock agency, I always check the photos for unwanted spots. No agency or photo buyer likes to receive a ‘dirty’ submission so it’s important to be 100% sure that you get all of them before handing over your photo to a client. I have developed a little method that makes it easier for me to spot the spots and remove them. It’s simple, just create an adjustment layer (press F1 for help if you’re not sure how to do it), select ‘curves’ and make the contrast very high, especially in the most spot-prone areas such as the sky and blank surface. This will make every spot stand out clearly, easy to spot. Now click on the original background layer to make sure that’s where you are working and proceed with the ‘clone stamp’ and ‘healing brush’ tools to remove them one by one. When you’re finished, delete the adjustment layer again. Now you’re sure you got’em all!
Another couple of great tools for retouching is the ‘burn tool’ and the ‘dodge tool’. The ‘burn tool’ is used to make bright areas darker and the ‘dodge tool’ for making dark areas brighter. Set the % ratio to something like 20% and the brush size to whatever is appropriate for your specific purpose. The neat thing is you can select between working on shadows, midtones or highlights only. It’s a common problem that the sky is overexposed, but quickly swiping the ‘burn tool’ over the white sky (having selected to work on highlights) makes it light grey, as if it was overcast. For portraits, the ‘dodge tool’ is excellent for making teethes in the smiling mouth more white. Since the tools preserves any texture, it looks more natural than actually starting to paint things grey or white.
The
Photography?s Digital Possibilities – Three Things to Get You Started
[English] Samsung ST100 Review [Deusch] Vorstellung der Samsung ST100 [AT] Samsung Digitalkameras: kamera.samsung.at [CH] Samsung Digitalkameras: kamera.samsung.ch [CH_FR] Samsung Appareils-photo: camera.samsung.ch
Video Rating: 5 / 5
With the introduction of digital photography and image editing software, a floodgate of new possibilities have opened up for creative photographers. Today, photographers who aren’t using image editing software are simply limiting their creative possibilities and missing out on a wealth of option to get ahead in the highly competitive marketplace. Using software for image enhancement is as important as using a good camera and lens. One of the many excellent image editing programs is Adobe’s Photoshop. That’s the program I’m using and it’s the basis of this tutorial. Similar functions can be found in most other image editing programs.
Photoshop have become the modern day darkroom — but without the chemicals and long waiting times associated with the classical darkrooms. You can choose to do small image enhancements or to apply special effects that will alter the image completely, all in a matter of seconds. It is up to you how much you want to change, but being a photojournalist and documentary photographer myself, I feel it’s my duty to remain true to my photographic subjects. So what I mostly do is the small, but powerful enhancements with the methods mentioned here. For the beginner I’ll advice to use these effects sparingly. Don’t overdo it. Often, less is more. And always use a copy of the original camera file to work on. If you later regret your changes, it’s not always possible to undo them, so always keep your original photo separate.
With that out of the way, here’s the three Photoshop tools I use all the time:
Curves (On main menu, select Image > Adjustments > Curves)
Sets the contrast and tonal range of your image. While there are other, easier options for changing the contrast, this one is by far the most powerful option. It can be a little tricky to get the hang of in the beginning, but it’s worth the effort learning. Simply click anywhere on the curve and drag it up or down. You can set almost as many points as you like, but usually 1 to 3 points is enough. What it does is it makes the dark, midtones and highlights either darker or lighter. Usually you’ll want to make sure that the darkest part of your image is black and the lightest parts are white. This will make your image ‘pop out’ and appear ‘strong’, sharp and rich in colour. It is also useful for enhancing the tonal details. The more steep you make the curve, the richer details you’ll get. If your photo already fills out the tonal range from black to white, it’s not possible to enhance, say, the shadow details without pushing the lighter areas into complete white. This is typical for a photo taken in mid-day sunshine with harsh shadows. But if you have a more tonal flat photo, where there’s not big difference between the darkest and lightest areas, typical for the kind of photo you take on an overcast or even misty day, you can produce great tonal details across the photo.
Unsharpen Mask (On main menu, select Filter > Sharpen > Unsharpen Mask)
This simple little tool with the confusing name is a must for digital photography. It’s used to make the image appear sharp in the final process of your editing. It’s not a magic tool to make fuzzy


